200 Monges Selección Especial Reserva Blanco 2009

First made in 2007, 200 Monges is remarkably consistent in its brilliance, ageing as well as almost any other white wine in the region. Viura-based with Garnacha, Malvasía and a splash of Moscatel, this handles its new wood with ease, unfurling flavours of kitchen spices, almond paste and toast on the palate, all supported by cool climate acidity. 2019-25

The 2009 “200 Monges” Seleccion Especial Blanco is a traditional white Rioja, a blend of 70% Viura, 20% Malvasia and the remaining 10% mostly Garnacha Blanca and other varieties from old vineyards which fermented in new barriques and matured in 40-year-old vineyards. The wne fermented in new oak barrels and matured in French and American oak barrels for 14 months. The nose is quite oaky, in an old, white Rioja way, with aromas of beeswax, pollen and herbal tea that is distantly reminiscent of the whites of yesteryear. My drinking window might be too conservative, but I was expecting more depth and vibrancy in the wine and I found it deceptively light. - Luis Gutiérrez.