Marqués de Vargas Reserva 2017

Not many wineries in Rioja have improved as rapidly and dramatically as Marqués de Vargas in recent years. This blend of Tempranillo with 17% Garnacha and 13% Mazuelo is elegant, polished and refined, with subtle coffee bean oak, fine, granular tannins and impressive freshness for a wine produced in a year that was as dry and hot as 2017. 2022-29.

This deep-ruby-colored wine offers aromas of black cherry, caramel and thyme. Flavors of blackberry, raspberry, licorice, dark chocolate and orange zest are wrapped up in feathery tannins and a soft sheath of acidity. There is a nice floral note on the bright finish.

The 2017 Reserva is surprisingly clean and fresh for such a year; perhaps it is the beginning of a change, as the 2018 also showed a similar profile, different from the wines from previous vintages. It's peppery and spicy, with some toasty notes. It's 70% Tempranillo, 17% Garnacha and 13% Mazuelo that matured in 225- and 500-liter (5%) French oak barrels for 23 months.

Delicate creaminess and sweet spices to the blackberries and dark plums. Medium to full body filled with lots of dusty tannins. Subtle finish with some creamy, spiced cherries. Drink or hold.