Villarín 2018

Among the best reds I have tasted to date from Mario Rovira, the 2018 Villarín was produced with the fruit from an organically farmed east-facing slope on slate and quartzite soils at 760 meters in altitude that was planted almost one century ago. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats, and the wine matured in a combination of concrete vats and used barriques for eight months. It's only 11.5% alcohol and has the spark of freshness I have found in many 2018s—it's clean, floral, perfumed and expressive. Unfortunately, there are only 612 bottles.