Poças Reserva Branco 2019

The 2019 Branco Reserva is a 70/30 blend of Old Vines and Arinto, aged for nine months in new French oak. It comes in at 13.7% alcohol. The first impression here is of extra wood as compared to the lower-level whites this issue, but this ultimately handles its wood rather well. Then, it seems more serious. It is sensually textured, adequately concentrated and rather refined. An elegant white to pair with food, this will be easy to drink, but it should also age well for a decade or so. Whether it does enough to justify the price spike is up to you, but this is a small step up in the lineup—in mouthfeel, texture and finish—especially if you are using it as a food pairing.

A ripe, full wine, with spice, toastiness and plenty of great fruitiness, this is young and deserves aging. The wine's ripe melon and pear flavors give it richness as well as freshness. That contrasts with the wine's taut texture and crisp edge. Drink from 2022.