Ramón Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012

Fragrant, with wax polish and dried rose petals. Red fruit on the palate, along with dried leaves and truffle, bold acidity and lacy tannins. Extremely long. Needs time; built for ageing.

The 2012 vintage in Rioja was Mediterranean in terms of its growing season, so being able to blend Tempranillo with 10% of higher acid Graciano and Mazuelo in Ábalos and Labastida came in handy. The oak is comparatively assertive here, but the savoury, intense, blackberry and wild herb flavours complement it well. 2021-27

Sourced from a very dry year that produced fresher wines than expected, the 2012 Gran Reserva is mostly Tempranillo with some 8% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo that matured in American oak barrels for 30 months and now 32 months in bottle. They have seen a small revival in the Gran Reserva, a category that almost disappeared at one point. It's balsamic, spicy, smoky and polished, in a classical style but somehow updated, clean and with more fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, with some dusty tannins and good acidity. A classical Rioja, ideal with food. 120,000 bottles produced.