Laurent Habrard Saint-Joseph 2017

This long bean-pole of an appellation only really comes into its own when growers can find the perfect individual site or collection of sites, angled to the river, in which to tease Syrah to a nuanced ripeness. That seems to be exactly what's been achieved here, to gloriously memorable effect: a wine with levels of lifted Syrah perfume normally only attained in Cote Rotie, and with vivid, dartingly fresh flavours of bell-like clarity and impact. Northern Rhone purists will simply love this outperforming St Joseph. Drink 2019-2026.

From a great terroir outside of Tournon, the 2017 Saint Joseph Sainte Épine is a solid effort that yields lots of blue fruits, pepper, game, and obvious earthy minerality in a rounded, nicely textured, medium-bodied package. With the upfront, fleshy fruit of the vintage, no hard edges, and terrific purity, it's going to be an outstanding bottle of wine.