Susana Esteban y Jorge Lucki Sidecar Branco 2017
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The 2017 Sidecar Branco is an old-vines (80 years) field blend from Serra de São Mamede in Portalegre aged for ten months in used (1961, from Alsace) 1,100-liter casks. Very dry, it comes in at 12.8% alcohol. When last seen, this quirky Branco was not bottled, so let's check in. It remains more than a little unusual in flavor profile, with a notable touch of almonds. That will always be the defining feature of this Branco, but the rest is pretty special. It is round and mouth coating, but also tense on the finish and simply gripping. While that flavor profile is unusual, it is by no means unattractive—in fact, it is rather intriguing at this point. When wines are a little on the different side, they are hard to benchmark. How you react to that will determine whether you like it more or less than I did. Susana thinks this will age very well, and I think she's right. It is just a baby today, she says. It sure seems so. There were 1,300 bottles produced.
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