M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal 2020

Another wine that flirts with perfection, the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal comes from the steep, south-facing slope right in the heart of Hermitage hill. All destemmed and brought up in the standard 20% new barrels and demi-muids, it has a more tight, straight, almost reserved profile than usual yet doesn't lack for density, mid-palate depth, structure, and concentration. Blackberries, redcurrants, spice, dried flowers, and loamy earth all define the aromatics, and it's full-bodied, has ripe, polished tannins, and a great finish. It needs to be forgotten for at least 5-7 years but will evolve for three decades.

Welcome to the dark side of the Hermitage force, complete with billowing smoke and a deep well of blackberry fruit. Staggering concentration and a massive structure that’s nonetheless very precise. Enormous depth and energy at the finish which moves across the palate like a giant wave, which you the drinker are surfing. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Marked by scents of blueberries, purple raspberries, black cherries and crushed stone, Chapoutier's 2020 Ermitage le Méal is a compelling wine. Full-bodied, silky and elegant, it lacks the exaggerated concentration of the 2019 vintage but boasts a degree of elegance that makes it appealing sip after sip. It's remarkably drinkable for such a young wine, yet it will undoubtedly age well for up to two decades.

Explosive ripe blackberries melded with spicy oak. Very smooth and generous, shot through with a thick weave of sweet, ripe tannins. The alcohol is on the high side, but this has very impressive concentration and tannic weight - coupled with balanced acidity this promises to age with interest. I love the sweet, soft tannins, but this will take a long time to come round and show fully display its terroir.