Gran Enemigo Torrontés 2019

There is a new white 2019 Gran Enemigo Torrontés from a parral vineyard planted in Gualtallary in 2009. This fermented in concrete, tinaja and oak foudre, and the tinajas and foudres are never topped up; so, the wine develops a thin layer of flor yeast, and the wines mature for around one year. It's elegant, subtle and not so aromatic; it doesn't smell of Moscatel, the typical aroma from Torrontés. It's a look at the Mosel from Gualtallary, crystalline, precise and clean, with 12.5% alcohol and very good freshness. It doesn't go through malolactic, and it's akin to a German Riesling with notes of white flowers and fruit, jasmine and a faint spicy touch. Alejandro Vigil told me this was inspired by Dirk Niepoort, who taught him how to drink Riesling. This is vibrant and tasty, very balanced, elegant and precise, with chalky and salty sensations in the finish. This is the first commercial release after trials that started in 2016. 7,000 bottles produced. Amazing.

Pretty, perfumed nose of white lavender, honeysuckle, peaches, orange blossom, white pears, lemon pith and blanched almonds. It’s medium-bodied with tangy acidity. Lots of lightly bitter floral and citrus-pith character. Serious, dry torrontes. Drink now.